Far too many goose legs and thighs are discarded before they ever make it to the kitchen. Thankfully, more hunters are beginning to realize their culinary potential, but we’ve still got a ways to go. I’m not proud to admit it, but I was guilty of this myself growing up. No one in my hunting circle—family, friends, or mentors—knew what to make of anything but the breasts. Once I got a little older, I started questioning some of the long-standing stereotypes surrounding certain cuts of wild game. I then began experimenting in the kitchen and quickly learned a lot of those assumptions were bogus.
These days, the legs and thighs are actually my favorite part of a goose. Given enough time in a Dutch oven or Crock-Pot, all that hardworking connective tissue melts into something incredibly succulent. The meat is rich, savory, and has a silky texture that can’t be replicated with breast meat. Braise the legs and thighs, pull the meat, and the possibilities are endless—tacos, barbecue sandwiches, ragù, pot pie, shepherd’s pie, or just about anything that calls for tender shredded meat. For my money, though, it’s hard to beat enchiladas.
This recipe takes inspiration from birria, using a chili-forward braise to transform the toughest part of a goose into a fall-off-the-bone tender filling. The braising liquid is then blended into a rich enchilada sauce, making use of every ounce of flavor from the bird. It’s a crowd-pleaser and a surefire way to make someone who’s only breasting out their honkers think twice. Share it widely—we need all the converts we can get.
A Few Notes Before You Start
Don’t sweat it if you’re missing an ingredient or two. Substitutions are welcome in this recipe. Following the seasoning blend exactly isn’t critical, but you do need to build a flavorful braising liquid that can transfer into the meat and ultimately the enchiladas. As with all wild game cooking, every animal is different. A five-year-old Canada goose will likely take longer to break down than a one-year-old bird. Think of this recipe as a guide, not a rigid set of rules. You may need to slightly adjust things along the way, especially when achieving the proper sauce thickness.
Ingredients
Goose & Braise
- 2 lbs goose legs and thighs
- 2 tbsp neutral oil
- Kosher salt and black pepper, to season goose
- 1 large white onion, diced
- 5 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 cups game, beef, or chicken stock (or enough to almost cover all the meat)
- 1 can diced tomatoes
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
- 2 bay leaves
Birria-Inspired Seasoning Blend
- 2 tbsp dried guajillo chili powder
- 2 tbsp chipotle chili powder
- 2 tsp ancho chili powder
- 1 tsp cayenne pepper
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 1 tsp oregano
- ½ tsp smoked paprika
- ½ tsp ground cumin
- ¼ tsp ground cloves
- ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
Enchiladas
- 12–14 corn tortillas
- 3 cups shredded Monterey Jack, Oaxaca, or Mexican blend cheese
- Fresh cilantro, chopped, for topping
- Diced white onion, for topping
- Lime wedges, for topping
Method
1. Brown the Goose
Pat the goose legs dry and season generously with kosher salt and black pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, brown the goose legs on all sides. Remove and set aside.
2. Build the Braising Liquid
Reduce the heat to medium and add the diced onion. Cook until softened and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste, stirring until fragrant and the tomato paste begins to darken slightly. Add the chili seasoning blend and stir constantly for 30 seconds.
3. Braise the Goose
Add the stock, diced tomatoes, apple cider vinegar, and bay leaves. Scrape the bottom of the pot to release any browned bits. Return the goose to the liquid.
Transfer to a Crock-Pot and cook on low for 7–8 hours, or until the meat easily pulls away from the bone. Alternatively, cover the Dutch oven and braise at 300°F for 4–5 hours. Expect more time for older/larger birds and less time for younger/smaller birds.
4. Make the Birria-Inspired Enchilada Sauce
Remove the goose from the braising liquid and allow it to cool slightly. Remove the bay leaves.
Using an immersion blender, blend the braising liquid until smooth and silky. The onions, garlic, tomatoes, and spices will emulsify into a rich enchilada sauce.
Adjust sauce thickness as needed:
- If the sauce is too thick, add more stock.
- If the sauce is too thin (which is more likely), simmer uncovered until it reaches your desired consistency. Alternatively, a small flour slurry (2 tbsp flour mixed with ¼ cup cold water) can be whisked in and simmered briefly to thicken the sauce. Repeat if necessary.
5. Shred the Goose
Pick the meat from the bones. Shred the goose and mix with a few spoonfulls of the cooking liquid to keep the meat moist and flavorful. Can or freeze the leftover liquid to use as a flavorful game stock.
6. Assemble the Enchiladas
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Spread a thin layer of the sauce across the bottom of a baking dish. Fill each tortilla with shredded goose and a small handful of cheese. Roll tightly and place seam-side down in the baking dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the enchiladas and top with the remaining cheese.
7. Bake & Serve
Bake uncovered for 20–25 minutes until the cheese is melted and bubbling.
Finish with fresh cilantro, diced white onion, and a squeeze of lime. Serve hot with rice, beans, and alongside a cold cerveza.
Until next time, enjoy—and good luck out there!
Recipe and photos by Split Reed Culinary Editor Kirk Marks, a hunter, photographer, and wild-game aficionado based in Kent Island, Maryland. Give him a follow at @kirkymarks.