Every October, I find myself counting the days until early duck season. The river I hunt rarely holds big ducks that time of year, but it reliably fills with woodies. I’ve never minded. Their plumage is vibrant, they’re among my favorite ducks to eat, and I’ve always appreciated their peculiar adaptation of roosting in trees. What’s not to like?
This season carried a little extra weight. It was my first time hunting over my Boykin Spaniel, named after the very river we gunned. At just eleven months old, he retrieved every duck that fell. Watching months of backyard drills translate to the field was something special—the closest I’ve come to a true “proud dad” moment.
While wood ducks are a natural fit for this recipe, it’s hardly limited to them. Mallards, pintails, teal, gadwall—any puddle duck will do. Hell, I’ve even used small Canada geese with great results.
Bordelaise is a classic French sauce built on dry red wine, shallots, and demi-glace. It’s a simple sauce that feels far grander than the effort required to make it. It also happens to pair perfectly with fowl. Simply put: if it’s duck season, it’s bordelaise season.
Wood Duck Bordelaise Recipe
Serves: 4
Ingredients
- 4 wood duck breasts (feel free to use fewer if working with larger ducks)
- Kosher salt
- 1 cup dry red wine (Bordeaux or similar)
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 shallots, peeled and diced
- 1 cup demi-glace
(or reduce 4 cups beef or veal stock down to 1 cup) - Reserved pan drippings
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 sprig fresh thyme
- 12–15 black peppercorns, crushed
Method
- Pat the duck breasts dry with paper towels. Score the skin in a shallow crosshatch pattern, cutting through the fat but not into the meat. Season both sides with salt and let rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
- Place the duck breasts skin-side down in a large cold skillet (cast iron or stainless preferred). Set over medium-low heat and allow the fat to slowly render until the skin is deeply golden and crisp, about 8-10 minutes.
- Increase the heat to medium-high, flip the breasts, and sear the meat side for about 2 minutes, aiming for medium-rare. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest while you prepare the sauce.
- In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes.
- Add the crushed peppercorns, thyme sprig, bay leaf, and any reserved pan drippings.
- Pour in the red wine and bring to a simmer. Reduce until syrupy, roughly a 75% reduction.
- Add the demi-glace, return to a gentle simmer, and cook for 8–10 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly.
- Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer, discarding the solids. Return the sauce to the pan and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter until emulsified. Season with salt to taste.
- Slice the duck breasts thinly against the grain. Spoon the warm bordelaise over the top or serve on the side.
Until next time, enjoy—and good luck out there!
Article by Split Reed Food Editor Kirk Marks, a hunter, photographer, and culinary aficionado based in Kent Island, Maryland. Give him a follow at @kirkymarks.
